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And the Endangered Afghan Heritage of UP

It All Begins With a Box of Halwa

We had never really intended to go to Rampur. It had happened by accident.

The pamdemic was finally subsiding and for our first trip post-lockdown, we had decided to visit the Himalayan town on Ranikhet.

We went by car from Delhi, and en route our stomachs began to rumble. Whipping out our phones, we began searching for the best places to stop for food. Everything seemed to point to Rampur and so off we went.

The kebabs we found were average at best, but at the end of our meal, a man called Zayyan walked into the restaurant carrying boxes upon boxes of Habshi halwa. He turned out to be an instagram follower of Umair’s and recognised the restaurant on Umair’s story as the one opposite his house.

The halwa was delicious and we obsessed over it for our entire Ranikhet trip.

Then, on the way back to Delhi, we decided to re…